Organic Ingredients
A.Y. 2024/2025
Learning objectives
The course aims at providing an overall view on the main classes of organic ingredients employed in cosmetic industry (e.g. lipids, emulsifiers, surfactants, organic colorants...), paying particular attention to the INCI nomenclature and to their function in a cosmetic formulation. Each class of organic ingredients will be described in terms of physicochemical properties and compatibility with other ingredients, with references on the interactions with skin physiology, potential toxicity and environmental impact. During the laboratory experiences, techniques commonly employed in synthetic chemistry will be showcased, with focus on the preparation of organic ingredients of cosmetic interest.
Expected learning outcomes
At the end of the course, the students will have acquired extensive knowledge of the main classes of organic ingredients employed as raw materials in cosmetic industry. They will develop methods to correlate the relevant physicochemical properties with the applications, and to critically evaluate the interactions and compatibility of the main classes of organic compounds. The students will be able to extract information from the INCI nomenclature on the label of a cosmetic product. Moreover, they will have the chance to build practical skills during laboratory experiences.
Lesson period: First semester
Assessment methods: Esame
Assessment result: voto verbalizzato in trentesimi
Single course
This course cannot be attended as a single course. Please check our list of single courses to find the ones available for enrolment.
Course syllabus and organization
Single session
Responsible
Lesson period
First semester
Course syllabus
INCI nomenclature and label.
Lipids and waxes: chemical structure, origin, chemical properties, solvent power towards functional ingredients, sensory aspects, effects on the formulation, use, and compatibility.
Surfactants: chemical characteristics, functions, and mechanisms. Properties, dependent on the chemical structures. Anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants, and nonionic surfactants.
Peptide synthesis.
pH stabilizers in cosmetic products.
Sequestrants: chelation mechanism and function.
Humectants.
Organic, non-polymeric texturizers.
Solvents and propellers employed in cosmetic products.
Organic coloring agents, insoluble organic pigments.
Essential oils from natural sources and aroma chemicals of synthetic origin: chemical structures and applications.
Lipids and waxes: chemical structure, origin, chemical properties, solvent power towards functional ingredients, sensory aspects, effects on the formulation, use, and compatibility.
Surfactants: chemical characteristics, functions, and mechanisms. Properties, dependent on the chemical structures. Anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants, and nonionic surfactants.
Peptide synthesis.
pH stabilizers in cosmetic products.
Sequestrants: chelation mechanism and function.
Humectants.
Organic, non-polymeric texturizers.
Solvents and propellers employed in cosmetic products.
Organic coloring agents, insoluble organic pigments.
Essential oils from natural sources and aroma chemicals of synthetic origin: chemical structures and applications.
Prerequisites for admission
Basic knowledge of inorganic and organic chemistry. During the first hours of the course, there will be lectures regarding general concepts in organic chemistry, necessary for the succeeding topics. In particular: acidity/basicity, stereochemistry concepts, intermolecular forces, hydrophilicity/lipophilicity, melting point, boiling point, solubility. Functional groups: nomenclature and general reactivity. Chemical stability.
Teaching methods
The first weeks of the course will be attended online in a blended mode (partly asynchronous and partly synchronous), to promote innovative methods in teaching. Frontal lectures will constitute the core of the course. 1 CFU is associated with practical laboratory experiences.
Teaching Resources
Slides of the lectures will be handed over.
Textbooks:
Organic Chemistry - P. Bruice
Chemistry and Technology of the Cosmetics and Toiletries Industry - D.F. Williams
New Cosmetic Science- Takeo Mitsui
Cosmetic Lipids and the Skin Barrier- T. Foster
Surfactants in Personal Care Products and Decorative Cosmetics - L. Rhein
Textbooks:
Organic Chemistry - P. Bruice
Chemistry and Technology of the Cosmetics and Toiletries Industry - D.F. Williams
New Cosmetic Science- Takeo Mitsui
Cosmetic Lipids and the Skin Barrier- T. Foster
Surfactants in Personal Care Products and Decorative Cosmetics - L. Rhein
Assessment methods and Criteria
The acquired knowledge will be evaluated with a test in written form with questions/exercises, in two hours' time.
CHIM/06 - ORGANIC CHEMISTRY - University credits: 7
Single bench laboratory practical: 16 hours
Lessons: 48 hours
Lessons: 48 hours
Professor:
Castoldi Laura
Professor(s)