Decorative Cosmetics Development

A.Y. 2024/2025
6
Max ECTS
64
Overall hours
SSD
CHIM/09
Language
English
Learning objectives
The course is intended for students who have attended courses on ingredients and physiology/biochemistry of the skin/skin annexes and can be introduced to relevant application into decorative cosmetics. The course aims at providing the students with an overview on the main classes of decorative cosmetics. In this respect, great attention would be paid towards formulation development, manufacturing aspects and physio-technological properties of the resulting products, which may impact on their overall quality and on the user experience.
During the laboratory experiences, methodologies for the physico-technological characterization of the cosmetic ingredients and for evaluating the quality of final products will be provided. Moreover, students will approach small-scale manufacturing of selected decorative cosmetics.
Expected learning outcomes
At the end of the course, students will have acquired the basis for the formulation of the main categories of make-up products (e.g. lipsticks, eye shadows, powders, base dyes, hair dyes), of the manufacturing processes they are involved and the challenges related to control, packaging and stability aspects. They will be able to understand the formulation role of each ingredient from the label of decorative cosmetics and hypothesizing the relevant production process.
Single course

This course cannot be attended as a single course. Please check our list of single courses to find the ones available for enrolment.

Course syllabus and organization

Single session

Responsible
Lesson period
Second semester
Course syllabus
- Powders in cosmetics: definition and properties
- Introduction to color cosmetics and color theory
- Formulation, manufacturing, quality control and stability evaluation of the main product categories relevant to color cosmetics:
poured products (e.g. foundation, chapstick, lipstick)
compacts (e.g. foundation, eyeshadow, blush, face powder)
extrudates (e.g. eyeshadow)
emulsions (e.g. lip gloss, mascara, foundation, eyeliner)
- Introduction of active ingredients into make-up products

Laboratory experiences - Systematic studies on formulation tools or manufacturing of finished products including: powders, chapstick, lipstick, gloss, foundation, mascara.
Prerequisites for admission
In order to deeply acquire the contents of the course and to apply them critically, basic knowledge of organic and inorganic chemistry, and of the ingredients of cosmetic products is required. Moreover, a background on the physiology as well as biochemistry of skin/ skin annexes and the main membranes on which cosmetic products are intended to be applied would be highly beneficial.
In order to undertake the laboratory experiences profitably and safely, a basic ability and knowledge of the risks associated with handling chemicals is required, which could also be achieved by attending the laboratory experiences related to the courses scheduled in the first semester.
Teaching methods
Lectures (mainly in presence) with the support of slides as well as digital instruments, and self-verification activities to be carried out online and/or offline. Seminars given by experts in the field to bring students closer to the reality of work/production.
Teaching Resources
Lesson slides and suggested reference textbooks available at the teacher's Ariel website.
Recent bibliographic material provided by the lecturer or found by the students through databases.

Handout used as a guide for laboratory experiences to be downloaded from the MyAriel website and corrected by the teacher.
Assessment methods and Criteria
Understanding/learning of the topics taught during the course will be assessed through a written test comprising:
- 6/12 closed questions relevant to the general topics (e.g. definition, properties and manipulations of powders) detailed on the MyAriel site of the course;
- 1 open-ended question relevant to specific cosmetic products presented in the lessons (e.g. powder, lipstick, pencil, foundation, mascara, nail polish) and will include definition, formulation, operation/processes, controls;
- 1 open-ended question relevant to the laboratory activities including choice of equipment/tools, operations performed and relevant criticalities, any calculations, description of the results and any control performed .
An interview might be proposed for clarifying the contents of the written exam.

For the awarding of the final grade in /30 the above evidence will be counted as follows:
closed questions: max 40%
open-ended questions: max 20% each
To improve the final grade, few points could also be attribute to special projects proposed during the course.
CHIM/09 - PHARMACEUTICAL AND TECHNOLOGICAL APPLICATIONS OF CHEMISTRY - University credits: 6
Single bench laboratory practical: 32 hours
Lessons: 32 hours
Professor(s)