Workshop: Fashion and Jewelry: Styles, Meanings and Communication
A.Y. 2022/2023
Learning objectives
The workshop is developed in three parts with different types of lessons.
The first part illustrates the different styles of jewelry from the beginning of the 20th century to the last decades of the that century in relation to fashion trends and artistic currents. The second part is an in-depth look at some very successful fashion houses (Bulgari, Tiffany, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati). The third part includes more practical lessons with guest speakers and visits outside and attempts to analyze the communication of a brand through the contributions of specialists, for example: the press office of a jewelry house, an advertising agency, a visit to a jewelry store or maison of jewelry where there is an archive to see historical pieces and talk about their approach to the modern market.
The first part illustrates the different styles of jewelry from the beginning of the 20th century to the last decades of the that century in relation to fashion trends and artistic currents. The second part is an in-depth look at some very successful fashion houses (Bulgari, Tiffany, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati). The third part includes more practical lessons with guest speakers and visits outside and attempts to analyze the communication of a brand through the contributions of specialists, for example: the press office of a jewelry house, an advertising agency, a visit to a jewelry store or maison of jewelry where there is an archive to see historical pieces and talk about their approach to the modern market.
Expected learning outcomes
Knowledge: The course aims to provide students with skills regarding the history and characteristics of the jewelry industry in Italy and other countries, with particular reference to the economic and cultural aspects of the supply chain.
Skills: Ability to interact in the field of technology within the goldsmith industry, with cross-cutting skills to different figures.
Skills: Ability to interact in the field of technology within the goldsmith industry, with cross-cutting skills to different figures.
Lesson period: First semester
Single course
This course cannot be attended as a single course. Please check our list of single courses to find the ones available for enrolment.
Course syllabus and organization
Single session
Lesson period
First semester
Course syllabus
The first part of the course illustrates the different styles of jewelry from the early twentieth century to the last decades of the last century in relation to fashion trends and artistic currents. A series of ad hoc sessions present, through a wide selection of portraits, photographs, paintings, films, illustrations, the fashion of a certain period, with insights into styles and communication tools.
The second part is an in-depth study of a number very successful jewelry maisons (Bulgari, Tiffany, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati). The history of the great jewelers, their origin, the style that made them famous, the cult masterpieces, but also the development of their business will be analyzed: all great jewelers have also been great businessmen and excellent communicators. During the lessons their history is also analyzed through advertising, testimonials, etc. up to the present day.
At the end of the course the students will have acquired a knowledge of the different styles of jewelry and bijoux, of the relationship between clothing and jewelry in the decades of the twentieth century. Students will learn about the history and iconic jewels of the most important jewelry houses.
1. What is a jewel: styles, meanings and communication.
2. The Art Nouveau revolution.
3. The Belle Epoque: the Garland Style and the Edwardian Style. A triumph of diamonds and pearls.
4. The Déco: Follies and "joie de vivre" in the Roaring Twenties. The influence of pictorial currents
and archaeological discoveries.
5. The 1930s and the charm of the "all white jewellery". The creative jewels of Chanel and
Elsa Schiapparelli.
6. Winds of war: Fashion and jewelry in the war period. Bijoux and 1940s style.
7. The 1950s, the return of luxury. The Cartier maison.
8. The 60s and the artists' jewelry. The Van Cleef & Arpels maison.
9. Jewellery of the '70s and 80s. The Tiffany maison.
10. The value of design and the relationship with the fashion world. The Bulgari maison.
The second part is an in-depth study of a number very successful jewelry maisons (Bulgari, Tiffany, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati). The history of the great jewelers, their origin, the style that made them famous, the cult masterpieces, but also the development of their business will be analyzed: all great jewelers have also been great businessmen and excellent communicators. During the lessons their history is also analyzed through advertising, testimonials, etc. up to the present day.
At the end of the course the students will have acquired a knowledge of the different styles of jewelry and bijoux, of the relationship between clothing and jewelry in the decades of the twentieth century. Students will learn about the history and iconic jewels of the most important jewelry houses.
1. What is a jewel: styles, meanings and communication.
2. The Art Nouveau revolution.
3. The Belle Epoque: the Garland Style and the Edwardian Style. A triumph of diamonds and pearls.
4. The Déco: Follies and "joie de vivre" in the Roaring Twenties. The influence of pictorial currents
and archaeological discoveries.
5. The 1930s and the charm of the "all white jewellery". The creative jewels of Chanel and
Elsa Schiapparelli.
6. Winds of war: Fashion and jewelry in the war period. Bijoux and 1940s style.
7. The 1950s, the return of luxury. The Cartier maison.
8. The 60s and the artists' jewelry. The Van Cleef & Arpels maison.
9. Jewellery of the '70s and 80s. The Tiffany maison.
10. The value of design and the relationship with the fashion world. The Bulgari maison.
Prerequisites for admission
No prior knowledge is required.
Teaching methods
Lessons will be classroom-based. Visits to jewellery and fashion jewellery archives are also part of the programme.
Teaching Resources
Mara Cappelletti, Stile e stili dei gioielli (Course Proceedings)
Mara Cappelletti (a cura di), Stile Milano Storie di eleganza, Nexo 2020
Melissa Gabardi, Il gioiello italiano del XX secolo, Silvana Editoriale, Cinisello Balsamo 2016
Publications in English:
- David Bennett e Daniela Mascetti, Understanding Jewelry, Antique Collectors' Club Ltd., Woodbridge, Suffolk (UK) 1989
- Deanna Farneti Cera, Fashion Jewellery Made in Italy, Antique Collectors' Club Ltd., Woodbridge, Suffolk (UK) 2013
Webstites:
https://www.vam.ac.uk
https://www.metmuseum.org/
https://www.britishmuseum.org/
Mara Cappelletti (a cura di), Stile Milano Storie di eleganza, Nexo 2020
Melissa Gabardi, Il gioiello italiano del XX secolo, Silvana Editoriale, Cinisello Balsamo 2016
Publications in English:
- David Bennett e Daniela Mascetti, Understanding Jewelry, Antique Collectors' Club Ltd., Woodbridge, Suffolk (UK) 1989
- Deanna Farneti Cera, Fashion Jewellery Made in Italy, Antique Collectors' Club Ltd., Woodbridge, Suffolk (UK) 2013
Webstites:
https://www.vam.ac.uk
https://www.metmuseum.org/
https://www.britishmuseum.org/
Assessment methods and Criteria
The exam will be written with the delivery of a short thesis.
- University credits: 3
Humanities workshops: 20 hours
Professor:
Cappelletti Cantafio Mara Concetta